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As our pastor, Fr. Otis, our pastoral associate, Ruth Prats, and other parishioners make their way through the Holy Land, we accompany them with our prayers but also by joining them digitally. Walk day-by-day through these most sacred of lands by following their own itinerary. Click the links to follow along.
Wednesday, October 29th
Our final, full pilgrimage day brings us to the city of Haifa, the largest northern city of Israel. Built on the Mediterranean coast, Haifa also rests on the slopes of Mt. Carmel, a place of Jewish and Christian significance. Originally a site sacred to the Canaanites, Mt. Carmel's importance changed with Elijah's challenge of the prophets of Baal, as relayed in 1 Kings 18. There is a still grotto dedicated to Elijah to celebrate God's activity. The Catholic Carmelite Order grew out of Elijah's experience on this sacred land. As Crusaders journeyed to the Holy Land, Christians became drawn more to these sites. So it was in the early 1200s that an unknown hermit began praying on Mt. Carmel, soon being joined by others. Finding inspiration from Elijah and the Blessed Mother, the group became organized under the title the Carmelites and establishing the monastery of Stella Maris -- or "Star of the Sea -- inspired by that Marian title and their position near an ancient watch tower. The Carmelites of today continue that commitment to prayer.
South of Mt. Carmel on the seaside is the city of Caesarea and the remains of its famous aqueduct. The original of four aqueduct expansions built by Herod from 37BC to 4BC, the Roman construction brought water over six miles.
And with that -- and another Mediterranean dinner -- our pilgrimage concludes. Kindly tip your waiter and remind Fr. Otis to share some of his Dead Sea mud with you.
Tuesday, October 28th
A day of pilgrimage travel begins with Cana, the site of Jesus' first miracle, as recorded in the Gospel of John. The Franciscans are caretakers of the church dedicated to the miracle, complete with a lower second level that includes a cistern and one of the jars claimed to be used by Jesus. Fittingly, Cana also makes -- and sells -- wine these days, a gift to give the couple that has everything but enough wine.
South of Cana is the so-called "Arab Capital of Israel": Nazareth. Nearly all of its 80,000 inhabitants are either Muslim or Christian. Nazareth, of course, is also the childhood home of Jesus, with a number of sites dedicated to his presence. We begin with the Basilica of the Annunciation, which incorporates the cave that Mary received Angel Gabriel's message. In Mary's time, Nazareth would have been a relatively small town, with only a number of residents. It would make sense the Annunciation would happen in a cave such as this, as it was safe from the elements and good for both domestic and animal use. A church on this site seems to date back to the early 4th century, with the Crusades and different occupiers necessitating its rebuilding multiple times. The current church was completed in 1969, built on the foundations of the older structures, with a large upper church and a smaller lower church around Mary's cave. Outside the church is also a courtyard displaying the different depictions of Mary from a variety of cultures.
Next stop is the church of St. Joseph. While there is no evidence that the cave upon with the church was constructed actually was the workshop and home of Joseph, the Holy Family would have lived somewhere similar (Matthew 1:18-25). Below the church is a crypt with a basin, believed to be a Christian baptismal area used as early as possibly the 1st century.
Nearby is the confusingly named Synagogue-Church. It's a 12th century Crusader church built atop the Old Synagogue of Nazareth. It is in that synagogue that Jesus controversially returns to his native Nazareth, offering a reflection from the Prophet Isaiah that led to Jesus' escort to the brow of the hill over Nazareth (Luke 4:16-30).
Our trip to Nazareth concludes with a visit to "Mary's Well." The only fresh water source in Nazareth in ancient times, Mary undoubtedly visited this place many times. The church of St. Gabriel is built above it.
East of Nazareth is Mount Tabor, a strategic location with multiple mentions in the bible (Judges 4:6-7, Psalm 89:12, Jeremiah 46:18). Most noteworthy, however, is its use as the backdrop of Jesus' Transfiguration (Matthew 17:1-13). Much of the countryside can be taken in from its height; what still can't be, though, is Peter's proposed tent subdivision.
Monday, October 27th
Our first full day in Galilee begins with a boat ride across the Sea of Galilee to Capernaum. Before boarding, though, a Tiberias museum gives a picture of sea navigation in Jesus' day, with a 1984 discovery of a boat from Jesus' day.
While no longer a functional town, Capernaum has much to offer. Known as "Jesus' town," (Matthew 9:1) Capernaum was home to Peter and Andrew, James and John and became the center of Jesus' ministry. It is on its coast that he called his first disciples (Matthew 4:12-22), where he promised the coming Eucharist (John 6:22-71), and where he healed the centurion's servant (Luke 7:1-10). It is also where Peter's house was, with its 2nd century Christian graffiti below and octogonal church above.
Down the road from Capernaum is the church of the Primacy of St. Peter, complete with its "Mensa Christi," the rock upon which it is believed that Jesus served his post-Resurrection breakfast of fish before his challenge of Peter to tend his flock (John 21:1-19). Nearby is Tabgha, the site where Christ fed the 5,000 with five loaves and two fish (John 6:1-13).
The final countryside journey on this Galilee day is up the Mount of the Beatitudes. Looking over the sea of Galilee is the field in which Jesus' Sermon on the Mount was delivered (Matthew 5-7). At the crest of the mount is a church dedicated to the Beatitudes.
Sunday, October 26th
Our pilgrimage slows some today, taking Sunday as both a day of rest and change of scenery. We move from the weight of Jerusalem to the fields of Galilee, finding our way to that region of the Holy Land in which Jesus spent most of his ministry.
On our way to Galilee, we stop at the Jordan River, descending into the waters inhabited by John the Baptist (Luke 3:1-20). It is also the place at which Jesus begins his public ministry, being baptized by his cousin (Matthew 3:13-17). Move down into the Jordan and renew your own Baptismal vows.
Saturday, October 25th
Our pilgrimage stays within the Old City today, touching those most well known Jerusalem sites. We begin at the Church of St. Anne, a 12th century church built over the believed birthplace of Mary and dedicated to her mother, Anne. The church is also built next to the Pool of Bethseda, where Jesus cured the paralytic man ( John 5:1-18). Fittingly, the pool is visited on the Jewish Sabbath, as Jesus controversially did.
A close walk from the pool is the Tower of Antonia. Located on the northwest corner of the temple mount, the tower served many roles, including visible oversight of temple activity. It was also a garrison, a prison, and a court -- believed to be the site of Jesus' trial before Pilate ( John 18:28-19:16). Where some of the fortress formerly stood is the Church of the Flagellation, remembering the Jesus' scourging at the pillar ( John 19:1-3).
From there we begin our own Stations of the Cross, moving literally down the Via Dolorosa. The many familiar scenes of the stations come to life moving through a crowded city environment to what would have been a small hill on the outskirts of the town ( Luke 23:26-32). The stations end at the Basilica of the Holy Sepulcher.
The Holy Sepulcher is unlike any other church in the world. Firstly, its governance is divided among many Christian custodians, primarily the Eastern Orthodox , Armenian Apostolic , and Roman Catholic Churches, but also the Coptic Orthodox , the Ethiopian Orthodox and the Syriac Ort hodox. Times and places of worship for each community are strictly regulated in common area, with controversies between different groups being all too common. Secondly, within its walls are many chapels and shrines, including the two most precious in Christianity: the sites of the crucifixion and resurrection.
Upon entrance into the church of the Holy Sepulcher, you notice raised to the right the s ite of the crucifixion: Golgotha. All of the church offers many places of prayer, but none so more than here, as the Greek chapel has space to reflect on all that occurred on that hill ( Luke 23:33-49). The Holy Sepulcher does close its doors each night, but it's policy is to allow anyone to stay overnight if he or she desires, with two provisos: to not get in the way of the many processions and liturgies taking place all through the night and to stay awake. As mentioned above, some custodians have a shorter fuse than others.
From Calvary, you can look across the church towards the other major site: the empty tomb. Before arriving there, crossing past the main entrance, you approach the Unction Stone, the site believed to be where the women would have anointed Jesus' body for burial ( Luke 23:50-56).
The tomb itself is quite small, allowing only a few people inside at once. Inside, though, is a place of deep prayer, with the stone upon which Jesus' body would've been laid ( Luke 24:1-12).
After those deeply Christian moments, the rest of Jerusalem calls, particularly the Wailing or Western Wall. This is the one remaining portion of Herod's expansion of the Temple of Solomon after Rome's destruction of the temple in 70. At the base of the Temple Mount, the Western Wall is one of the holiest places of prayer for the Jewish people, with prayers traditionally being written and slipped within the wall's cracks.
Friday, October 24th
The third full pilgrimage day begins in the ancient city of Jericho. Located near the Jordan River, Jericho was famously overtaken by the Israelites without a blow but with trumpet blasts collapsing the city wall, as detailed in the Book of Joshua. Today it still remains a city and offers a view of what is believed to be the Mount of Temptation (Matthew 4:1-11). Jericho was also the site of Jesus' encounter with Zacchaeus (Luke 19:1-10); with many sycamores still in Jericho, one even boasts to have held little Zacchaeus.
A stop at Qumran is next. The desert home of the ancient Essene community, Qumran was the site associated with the Dead Sea Scrolls discovery, some of the oldest preserved biblical texts existent. The text of Isaiah is particularly noteworthy, 1100 years older than any other complete copy of the book. The discovery of scrolls themselves was remarkable itself, found by a Bedouin shepherd in a cave in 1946 and originally being deemed as worthless.
From Qumran, a cable car brings us to Masada, the scene of the epic stand by the Jewish rebels at the end of the Great Revolt against Rome. The Jewish "last stand" ended in defeat in the year 73, but the nearly 1,000 Jewish soldiers overtaken are still revered for their heroism.
The day ends with a trip to the Dead Sea, one of the most extraordinary bodies of water in the world. At the lowest elevation on earth, the Dead Sea has a salinity that makes floating possible in even the smallest amounts of water. Its mud is also coveted by many for its reputed therapeutic qualities. Just imagine Fr. Otis with only the grey of his mustache poking through a mud-covered face.
Thursday, October 23rd
Moving from Jerusalem, the second pilgrimage day begins with a car journey to Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus. Only 6 miles from Jerusalem (think downtown Covington to LA-22), Bethlehem can appear a world away, falling behind walls separating Israeli and Palestinian territory. The Palestinian-controlled Bethlehem shows a poverty not present in Old Jerusalem. The main site is the Basilica of the Nativity and the grotto, a place venerated as the location of Jesus' birth. Accompany Luke's Gospel for reflection (2:1-7).
Also in Bethlehem is the Church of St. Catherine, believed to be built on the site of St. Catherine of Alexandria's vision of Christ in the early 4th century. Nearby is the Cloister of St. Jerome. In 386, Jerome settled in a cave in Bethlehem near the place of Christ's birth, living a physically austere life while prodigiously producing scholarly work, including much of the Latin Vulgate translation of the Bible. From the cloister, we can move to the Chapel of St. Helena. The mother of the Emperor Constantine, Helena was perhaps the Holy Land's most notable pilgrim, returning with some of the earliest relics of the area. The chapel contains 12th century frescos as a fitting reminder of Helen.
Moving back north towards Jerusalem, the next location to visit is Ein Karem, a western suburb of Jerusalem today, the home of Elizabeth and Zecchariah in biblical times. The Church of the Visitation recalls Mary's visit to her cousin Elizabeth, pregnant with John the Baptist. Luke 1:39-56 beautifully records the encounter between the two sets of cousins.
Wednesday, October 22nd
Sitting atop Jerusalem and outside the city walls is the place of the Ascension . As with some Holy Land sites, this distinctly Christian monument is cared for by local Muslims, keeping the grounds clean but relatively stark . As Acts 1:6-12 reveals, there is light even in departure .
Moving from the site, we begin the descent from one of the seven hills that surrounds Jerusalem, we stop at the church of Dominus Flevit, where Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem -- now in full view -- and foretold its destruction ( Luke 19:41-44).
Continuing down the Mount of Olives, we now enter the Garden of Gethsemane, an area outside of the city proper that Jesus would go to pray. The olive trees in the garden are some of the oldest in the world. Of course, it is most associated with the beginning of Jesus' Passion ( Luke 22:22-54). Next to the garden still in existence is the church of All Nations, believed to contain the rock upon which Jesus spent his night in prayer.
Traveling Jesus' Holy Thursday night in reverse, we now move into Old Jerusalem, the historic site of David's city. Surrounded by a wall since the most ancient times, the old city has eleven gates, with seven still operational -- up from the original four of David. Relatively compact, Jerusalem was built on two hills around a water source, making it liveable and defensible. One always walks "up to Jerusalem," emerging from one of the surrounding valleys.
The first stop in Jerusalem is the Upper Room, the site of Jesus' Last Supper ( Luke 22:7-38). It is also where the apostles gathered in hiding in the days after Jesus' crucifixion.
Next is a stop to the Benedictine-run Dormition Abbey, its name mentioning the eternal sleep of the Virgin Mary found at the end of her life on earth at this spot. Not far from the Upper Room, Dormition Abbey shows the closeness of Mary to her son and to the early Church.Finally on our first full pilgrimage day, we visit the church of St. Peter in Gallicantu, built over Caiaphas's official residence (Luke 22:54-65). The church derives its name from the crowing rooster that reminded Peter of his failed promise of allegiance to Jesus. In the Jewish culture of the day, for an offended party to turn his head toward his or her her offender was to offer forgiveness. Peter knew his sin and realized immediately and overwhelmingly Jesus' forgiveness. The church also contains a holding cell below, where prisoners would be held awaiting trial.
